Gin Rummy

The two-player rummy duel with closed hands: nothing touches the table until someone knocks. Build your melds in secret, watch every card your opponent takes, and knock the moment your deadwood is ten or less — or hold out for gin.

Waiting for Across…

You 0
Across 0
to 100
Across
Stock · 31
Discard
You · dealer
Deadwood: 63

Gin Rummy: the sharpest two-hander in the deck

Gin Rummy takes the draw-and-discard loop of straight rummy and makes one decisive change: nothing is melded during play. Your sets and runs stay hidden in your hand, your opponent's stay hidden in theirs, and the only information that crosses the table is the discard pile — which cards each of you throws away, and which you stoop to pick up. The hand ends not when someone's hand is empty but when someone knocks, betting that their unmatched cards are cheaper than yours. It's rummy compressed into a duel: faster, tenser, and far more psychological, because every discard is both a card and a message.

Where it comes from

Gin Rummy has an unusually specific origin story for a card game: it was devised around 1909 in Brooklyn by Elwood T. Baker, a whist instructor, reportedly with help from his son Charles Graham Baker, who went on to become a Hollywood screenwriter. The name is a period joke — rummy was already named for rum, so a faster offshoot naturally got named for the other spirit on the shelf. The game simmered for two decades and then exploded in the 1930s and 40s, and the son's industry connection is part of why: gin became the backstage game of Hollywood's golden age, quick enough to play between takes and easy to drop the instant a director called. Stars played it on set, gossip columns reported the running scores, and Broadway eventually canonized it in The Odd Couple's poker-night-turned-gin bickering. Canasta stole its crown in the 1950s, but gin never really left — it remains the standard two-player rummy worldwide, with serious tournament play and a devoted literature on its mathematics.

The objective

Arrange your ten cards into melds — sets of equal ranks and runs in one suit — while shrinking the value of your unmatched cards, your deadwood. When your deadwood totals ten points or less, you may end the hand by knocking. Both hands are then revealed and compared, and the difference in deadwood is scored. Hands repeat until someone reaches 100 points and wins the game.

Setup

  • Standard 52-card deck, two players, 10 cards each.
  • The next card is flipped face up as the first upcard; the rest go face down as the stock.
  • Aces are low and worth 1; face cards are worth 10; everything else counts its number. These values are what deadwood costs you.
  • The first dealer is chosen at random; after that, the winner of each hand deals the next (dealing is the slightly worse seat, so winning earns the handicap). After a dead hand the same dealer re-deals.

The upcard round

Gin opens with a small ritual that matters more than it looks. The non-dealer gets first refusal of the face-up upcard: take it into hand and discard something, or pass. If the non-dealer passes, the dealer gets the same choice. If both pass, the non-dealer must begin by drawing from the stock, and play proceeds normally from there. Taking the upcard is a public announcement — you've told your opponent exactly one card in your hand — so it's only worth doing when the card genuinely melds.

A turn, start to finish

  1. Draw one card — the top of the stock (hidden) or the top of the discard pile (public). You now hold eleven.
  2. Discard one card face up to end your turn. You may not throw back the card you just took from the discard pile — that would be a wasted turn, and the rules forbid it.

That's the whole turn. No melding, no laying off — the game is entirely in which card you take and which you let go. Melds only exist in your head (and on this table, in the gold-tabbed groups your hand sorts itself into) until someone knocks.

Knocking

After drawing, if you can discard so that your remaining ten cards contain ten points of deadwood or less, you may knock instead of discarding normally: the knock discard traditionally goes face down, you spread your melds, and the hand ends. Knocking is always optional — at ten deadwood you may keep playing toward gin if you like the odds.

The defender then reveals their hand, sets aside their own melds, and — unless the knocker made gin — may lay off deadwood onto the knocker's melds: a fourth card onto a set, extra cards onto either end of a run. Lay-offs chain — if the knocker shows 6-7-8♠, your 9♠ extends the run and then your 10♠ rides in after it. Whatever deadwood the defender can't shed is counted.

  • If the knocker's deadwood is lower, the knocker scores the difference between the two counts.
  • If the defender's deadwood is equal or lower (after lay-offs), the defender has undercut the knocker and scores the difference plus a 25-point bonus. Ties go to the defender — knocking with the higher count is the knocker's risk.

Gin and big gin

Knock with zero deadwood — all ten cards melded — and you've gone gin: you score the defender's entire deadwood count plus a 25-point bonus, and the defender may not lay off a single card. That last part is half the reward: deadwood that would have vanished onto your runs stays on their bill. Rarer still is big gin — all eleven cards melding after your draw, declared with no discard at all — worth the defender's deadwood plus 31.

When nobody knocks

The last two cards of the stock are never drawn. If a player discards and only two stock cards remain with no knock on the table, the hand is dead: no one scores, and the same dealer deals again. The approaching floor changes the endgame — with six or eight cards left, a marginal knock is often better than a dead hand.

Scoring reference

  • Knock: defender's deadwood − knocker's deadwood.
  • Undercut (defender equal or lower after lay-offs): the difference + 25 to the defender.
  • Gin (knock at zero deadwood): defender's full deadwood + 25; no lay-offs allowed.
  • Big gin (all eleven cards meld): defender's full deadwood + 31.
  • Dead hand: two stock cards left, no knock — no score, re-deal.
  • Game: first to 100 points.

Strategy that actually matters

  • Knock early, gin rarely. The most common beginner mistake is treating gin as the goal. A knock on turn four or five with seven deadwood wins the long game: the bonus for gin is 25, but the price of sitting on a knockable hand while your opponent improves is paid every turn. Hold for gin only when your deadwood is already tiny, the hand is young, or the discards tell you your opponent is far behind.
  • Every pickup is a confession. Take from the discard pile only when the card completes or extends a meld. The moment you take a 7, your opponent buries every 6, 7, and 8 they hold — and you've traded a hidden draw for a public one. The bot on this table follows exactly that rule; so should you.
  • Discard by what they've taken, not what you've seen. The cards your opponent picks up are the only honest signal in the game. A card adjacent to one they took — same rank, or the same suit within two ranks — is fuel for their hand. When in doubt, throw cards near your own earlier discards they ignored: those neighborhoods are proven dead.
  • Middle cards buy flexibility, but cost points. A 6 can join more runs and sets than any ace or king — early on, keep the middle and shed isolated high cards, which are ten points of pure liability. As the hand matures, flip priorities: unmatched middle cards become dangerous discards precisely because they fit so many of your opponent's draws.
  • Count the stock down. Gin hands end fast — roughly half the stock is never seen. Track how many draws remain, and as the two-card floor approaches, take any legal knock rather than ride a good hand into a dead one. An undercut attempt is also strongest late: if your deadwood is already low and your opponent looks knock-ready, holding an extra safe card can turn their knock into your 25.
  • Two-way cards are worth an extra half-draw. Holding 7♥ 7♠ 8♠ can become a set with either red 7 or a run with 6♠ or 9♠ — four outs. Arranging your keepers into shapes with multiple completions is most of what separates strong gin players from lucky ones.

Common variations

Gin's core rules are unusually stable, but the scoring around the edges varies by household and card room. The big ones to settle before playing for stakes:

  • Oklahoma gin — the first upcard sets the knock limit for the hand: flip a 5 and you need five deadwood or less; flip an ace and only gin ends the hand. Many rooms double the hand's score when that upcard is a spade. Widely considered the superior tournament game.
  • Straight gin — no knocking at all; hands run until someone goes gin. Longer, purer, and much swingier.
  • Box and line bonuses — traditional match scoring adds 25 points per hand won (a "box") when the game ends, plus a 100-point game bonus, doubled for a shutout ("schneid"). This table plays the simple race to 100; if you keep score on paper, boxes reward the player who wins many small hands.
  • Hollywood scoring — every hand is entered into three game columns at once (your first win counts in game one, your second in games one and two, and so on). A bookkeeping layer from the movie-lot era, for players who want one sitting to settle three games.
  • Bonus sizes — 25/25/31 for gin/undercut/big gin is the most common modern set, but older books give gin 20 or undercut 10, and some rooms score big gin at 50. Agree first; the play is identical.

Frequently asked questions

Why can't I lay off when my opponent goes gin?

It's a deliberate part of gin's reward. Laying off exists to protect the defender from a knocker's exposed melds — but gin is priced as a perfect hand, and denying lay-offs is what makes its 25-point bonus actually worth chasing. If lay-offs were allowed, a gin against a nearly-finished hand would score almost nothing.

What happens if our deadwood is equal?

The defender wins it — an equal count is an undercut, worth the 25-point bonus (plus a difference of zero). The knocker chose to end the hand, so the knocker carries the risk of the comparison. It's why knocking at exactly ten with a rich discard pile behind you is braver than it looks.

Can the knocker lay off on the defender's melds?

No. Lay-offs flow one way, from the defender onto the knocker's exposed melds. The knocker committed to their ten cards when they knocked; the defender is the one reacting to revealed information.

Do I have to knock as soon as I can?

Never. Knocking at ten-or-less deadwood is a right, not a duty — you may keep drawing toward gin as long as you dare. The knock button on this table lights up when a knock is legal for the selected discard; whether it's wise is the whole game.

Why does the winner deal the next hand?

The non-dealer gets first refusal of the upcard, which is a small but real edge — over a match it adds up. Giving the deal to each hand's winner hands that edge to the player who's behind, the same way service alternates in racquet sports. (Some households simply alternate deals; it costs the loser a little equity.)

Is Q-K-A a run? What's an ace worth?

Aces are strictly low in gin: A-2-3 is a run, Q-K-A is not, and an ace caught as deadwood costs just one point — which makes aces the safest cards in the game to hold late. (A few house variants play "round the corner" runs with aces high-and-low and charge 15 for them; standard gin does not.)

Can three or four people play?

Gin is built for exactly two. Three players usually rotate ("captain's gin," where the winner stays and the loser sits out), and four play as two-ply partnerships comparing team totals. For a proper multiplayer draw-and-discard game, straight rummy — gin's parent, one page over — seats up to four here.

How is this different from straight rummy?

Three ways: hands are closed (no melding or laying off during play), the hand ends by knocking on low deadwood rather than by emptying your hand, and the undercut means ending the hand is itself a gamble. Rummy is the open, social table game; gin is the closed, counting duel that grew out of it.